TARTARE FOR NOW

You know me, it doesn’t take much to get me salivating over venison, and there had been a loin of venison lurking in the freezer for a couple of weeks.

 

This photo and the majority of the others by Caroline Gannon.

And then when I was in London, back at the Coal Hole in the Strand, venison croquettes were on the menu, so how could I not order them.

Actually they were described as Venison Pancetta and Red Wine Croquettes which were pretty decent in themselves.  The liquid round the edge is ‘brown sauce mayonnaise’ which sounds like it might be a mix of mayo and HP, and for good or ill, that’s pretty much what it tasted like. And that is a watercress and pickled onion salad on the side, should you be interested.

 

And then last Saturday morning I was listening to Jay Rayner’s The Kitchen Cabinet, and there was much discussion of, and enthusiasm for, eating venison, not least because there are apparently more deer in England than there have even been, perhaps because not enough people eat them.

 

So in order to even up the score, the inamorata and I thawed out the venison loin and made a tartare.  It was way better than the croquettes, if we say so ourselves.

THE CROQUETTE AND I

 Sometimes during school holidays when I was a lad growing up in Sheffield, my mum would take me out for lunch at the Sidewalk Café in Chapel Walk.  I remember it being a nice enough place but photographs from its early days make it look way cooler and hipper than I could ever imagine, let alone remember.

 

I remember two things about the food. One, that on the counter there were huge bowls of sliced onion in vinegar, which you could scoop out and have with your cheese roll, which is what I usually had: you could take as much as you wanted. Also, and I don’t suppose this went with the cheese rolls, they served potato croquettes which I’d never come across before and which I loved and which seemed the height of sophistication and exoticism.

 

Well, the years go by and I’d have said that these days it’s pretty rare to find croquettes on a menu, and yet in the last few weeks I’ve had two different kinds in two different places.

 

The first were at the Cabbage Patch, a pub in Twickenham – they were leek and black pudding which I think is hard to beat - that's apple sauce in the little pot:

The second lot were at a pub called the Goose, in Walthamstow, and went by the name of Spanish Ham Croquettes with ‘smoky baconnaise’ – which I  suppose is mayo with bacon in it, though I couldn’t taste any bacon and in fact it seemed more like Marie Rose sauce.

 

The Cabbage Patch has a terrific pub sign outside, like this:

 

The current sign outside the Goose is quite muted, with just with the pub name on it, no illustration, though it does have this strangely appealing sign for its not very secret garden – it’s the chain that makes it special.

 

However the signage hardly compares with the old days when the Goose was The Tower, complete with folly tower and a giant concrete head.  I do wonder what happened to the head:

 

And here from the interwebs is what claims to be the world’s biggest croquette, made in Assabu, in Hokkaido, on July 23, using 600 kilograms of potatoes, 50 kg of ground meat, 200 eggs, and weighing 279 kg.

 

It doesn’t look in the least like my idea of a croquette but probably it’s a cultural thing and in any case it’s in the Guinness Book or Records so I suppose that’s good enough.