Having 8 or 9 hours to spare, and wanting to
have a new smoked meat adventure I dug
out a recipe from the New York Times’ Sam Sifton for Pulled Lamb Shoulder. And as he’d be the first to admit, it’s not
actually not his recipe: it comes a book by Joe Carroll titled Feeding the Fire.
Sifton writes, “Mr. Carroll is hardly barbecue royalty. He’s a home cook from New
Jersey with no formal culinary training who runs a small kingdom of bars and
restaurants in Brooklyn and Philadelphia devoted to the pleasures of live-fire
cooking, most notably Fette Sau and St. Anselm.” He then adds, “This
pulled lamb is an homage to the barbecued mutton of Western Kentucky. Smoke the
meat over charcoal and wood, not gas. It’s bonkers delicious.”
Well, I know next to nothing about Western
Kentucky or its barbecued mutton, though I’m now on the case. The big attraction of the recipe was the rub
featuring ground expresso beans – along with the usual brown sugar, garlic, cumin
and whatnot. (There’s a link to the recipe
at the end of this post.)
Sifton (and perhaps Carroll) display the
pulled lamb shoulder like this, which misses some of the grandeur, if you ask
me.
 |
| Melina Hammer for The New York Times |
Mine looked like this when it went in:
And like this when it came out (you
understand that it’s not burned to a cinder – the black stuff is the smoked espresso
rub):
And it looks like this when you cut (rather
than pull) it:
It was indeed “bonkers delicious” – a phrase
I shall be using more often from now on).
Not the least of the appeal; there’s still a bag of rub left in the
fridge and I’m looking around for other things that need rubbing. Well, what doesn’t?
That link:
http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017452-pulled-lamb-shoulder
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