Sunday, June 4, 2017

SOME LITERARY KIDNEYS




Even if you know next to nothing about Joyce’s Ulysses there’s a chance you may know the lines, “Mr Leopold Bloom ate with relish the inner organs of beasts and fowls. He liked thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liverslices fried with crustcrumbs, fried hencods' roes. Most of all he liked grilled mutton kidneys which gave to his palate a fine tang of faintly scented urine.”


To which a reader might ask, “Yes, but what about the external organs?”  Although I suppose (unless we’re discussing testicles) there’s only really one seriously edible external organ and that’s the skin.
Given the flexibility of Bloom’s Jewishness, chances are he wouldn’t have objected too much to eating pork skin.  And even, perhaps especially, observant Jews  are fans of gribenes, chicken or goose skin cracklings.


Anyway, this Joycean literary allusion was in my mind as I made devilled (not grilled) kidneys for Sunday breakfast, loosely following a Fergus Henderson recipe, substituting sherry for chicken stock.  Came out pretty well, I thought.


Had I been cooking them for dinner I would almost certainly have added brandy and made kidneys flambĂ©, but that always brings up another literary allusion: Peter Handke’s The Ride Across Lake Constance.   



I had certainly tasted kidneys before I saw a production of the play, though I’d never had them flambĂ©ed.  And now I can never even think of them without summoning up these lines:



Oh and I just found this.  It’s from the Observer, April 2009, and appears in Tom Adams’ interview with Claire Walsh, JG Ballard’s very longtime girlfriend, conducted “just days after his death.”  Was there a rush?


Anyway, Adams writes, “Up until recently, in weeks when his appetite was buoyed by steroid, he (Ballard) would take her up the road to Kristof’s, a regular haunt, and insist she had oysters while he had his favorite devilled kidneys.”  This makes me like Ballard even more than I did already.


THE BEAR NECESSITIES

Here’s a fine bit of “food writing” from one of my heroes, Sebastian Snow, the old-Etonian, explorer, walker, and all-round eccentric and good egg.  It appears in his book Half A Dozen of the Other, in a chapter titled  “In Orellana’s Footsteps – the journey that nearly killed us.”  He and his party are in Ecuadar, in trouble, on foot, trying to get to the city of Coca, through what we would now call rainforest.  Snow is the man on the right, in the picture below.


“Within twenty-four hours of plunging back into the jungle, we had eaten the last of our food; from now on it was up to the jungle itself to support us.  It made a fairly brave show for a day or two.  The second day after we had left the river, one of the Indians shot a young female bear, craftily coaxed down from the uttermost branches of interlocking treetops by our porters simulating mating calls, which although effective created no headlong thrill in the breast of one so innocent.  But like Lolita it eventually came under the spell of the ‘heartless’ Humbert Humberts that lay in wait.  The bear having been killed instantly by a very fine – and sporting – shot while still comprativle high up, I noticed at once the length and the sharpness of its claws.  The men immediately ripped out its heart (a delicacy I refused).  We ate much of her at once – and ‘smoked’ the rest – supplementing the strong meat with berries and roots together with palm-shoot hearts – a tough, tasteless and indigestible ‘vegetable.’”

 Note to weight-watchers: Snow managed to lose 70 pounds in the course of the expedition.


I have only eaten bear once, at a promotional lunch given by Steve Rinella (above)– a man I thought would absolutely conquer the world of TV chef-dom, and he does have a perfectly good career, including a program called Meateater on the Sportsman Channel (whatever that is).  But I think the real reason he isn’t everywhere is because he hunts and kills what he eats, and the TV foodie world just doesn’t like to admit that animals have to be killed before gourmet action can take place. 

Thursday, June 1, 2017

THE NAKED SANDWICH

“A frozen moment when everyone sees what’s between the slices of bread.”


When I was a kid, I was generally praised by my parents (amid much condemnation on other matters) because I was not a “fussy eater.”   There were no battles about what I ate because my parents knew that I’d eat most things, and if I said I didn’t want to eat something I must really hate it. 

But one of the things I had trouble with back then was other people’s sandwiches.   I was happy eating my mum’s sandwiches, but not other people’s.  They frightened me, they made me anxious.  There could have been anything in there. 
I avoided them when I could, and if I had to I did force down sandwiches made by people other than my mum, but I always had a fear that something horrible might have been slipped in there.
In retrospect I can see how irrational (and perhaps Freudian) this was, and I don’t know why this applied to sandwiches, but not to stews or pies or soups, which were just as likely to contain something alien.  And the whole thing reached an apotheosis with sandwiches containing egg mayonnaise (British nomenclature) or egg salad (American).  That seemed like a form specifically designed to hide dubious substances.

Well, I got over it.  These days I can eat just about anybody’s sandwiches.  And I’m not saying there aren’t weird and alien things in some of them, there probably are, but you know, I’m a strong lad, I don’t worry about them.

But there is problem for the food blogger, and I suppose for the food photographer, and no doubt for the food stylist, when it comes to sandwiches.  Take a photograph of a sandwich on a plate and all you see is bread.  You see the outside but not the inside, and the inside is really the important part.


Above, for instance, is the daily special from a restaurant called Soda Pop’s in LA – and to be honest I don’t even remember exactly what was in it.  I think it was some variation on a Cuban sandwich (so pork was definitely in there), but they were offering it with pineapple, which I asked them to hold and they very obligingly did – and it was perfectly good, but as an image it lacks some crucial information

Of course you can open up a sandwich and get a look at what’s inside – and this may be done for the sake of the photograph, this one is a bouillabaisse sandwich from the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station, New York.  But opening it up feels a bit like cheating.


         The grilled cheese sandwich is especially inscrutable - there’s no knowing what’s melted in there – and opening it up doesn’t tell you much, because it’s all just goo in there anyway:




My companion who was served the thing below, assures me this was the worst grilled cheese sandwich she ever ate, and I’m perfectly happy to believe her:


Sometimes the sandwich is served open face, like this combo of egg and chopped liver from Sherman’s Deli in Palm Springs, but I must say I spend a certain amount of time wondering whether an open sandwich counts as a real sandwich.


Sometimes you open up a sandwich and find disappointment.  This one from the cafĂ© at the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens, in Palm Desert, looked like this from the outside:


But open it up and it looked like this:


To be absolutely fair, there was probably just about enough tuna in this sandwich, but it had all been deposited down one end, which shows a certain lack of love in its construction.

Your best hope may be that a sandwich is so full of goodness that the contents are bursting out and you can clearly see what you’re getting, this is a Philly Cheese steak sandwich.  Actually from Denny’s.  No sandwich snobbery in these parts.


But they guy who really addressed this problem, and succeeded about as well as anybody could was Jon Chonko, in his book Scanwiches.  It’s an amazing little volume:




If Mr. Chonko is to be believed, he took sandwiches, sliced through them, put one half on a flatbed scanner (actually his girlfriend’s flatbed scanner) and took a scan.  The results look amazingly good, and I can’t help thinking there’s a lot of art being employed to hide the art.  Surely the average sandwich is likely to leak and collapse the moment you put in on a scanner, so I imagine there must be some clamps, maybe a black glove hand holding the sandwich in place, but that’s OK, I’m happy enough for the sandwich to keep some of its mystery.


As, apparently, is Ron Wood of the Rolling Stones.  According to his autobiography he gave his first wife (I guess that would be Krissy) “a Quaalude sandwich” so that he could he could “flirt” with the woman who was going to be her replacement, that would be Jo.

What did I tell you about alien substances in sandwiches?


Wednesday, May 31, 2017

HURRAY




Just another sandwich in a lifetime of sandwiches.  This one’s an “ALT” - not "alternative" as I first imagined, but avocado, lettuce and tomato - at the Beachwood CafĂ©, Hollywood (very possibly even Hollywoodland).


They have a real nice floor.